Eating my way through the Big Easy
For today, let’s talk about my favorite aspect of the Big Easy, the food, glorious food! When we arrived in the French Quarter, we first headed to the Clover Grill for a quick and easy meal. There used to be a sister joint called Poppy’s, but now only this one remains there on Bourbon and Ursuline. They serve breakfast 24-hours a day, and though I really like their breakfast, I came for their greasy hamburger. You know the kind I’m talking about. They are the ones we used to be able to get years and years ago before everybody started getting healthy, the ones where you can feel your arteries hardening with every scrumptious bite. They still grill these under a hubcap so they stay really moist and juicy. Not a real extravagant “foodie” type of choice, but definitely a wonderful way to kick off our visit and prepare our bellies for the break from salads and healthier choices. I always look forward to a burger at this place at least once during my visit.
We walked around the French Quarter and I’m very pleased to say, it’s back! We were a bit worried that things might not be the same after Katrina, and while it isn’t outside of the Quarter, inside it is pretty much business as usual. If you are familiar with the French Market, which is an outdoor flea market type arrangement on Decatur, right next to the river. They are taking this opportunity to redo part of it so it is about a third of the normal size, but there still were the $4 sunglasses, the $5 T-shirts, and most of the usual suspects, just not as many different booths to choose from.
For dinner Friday night, some friends took us to Cochon on Tchoupitoulas which if you speak French, translates to Pig, and man o’ man, do they know how to cook pig! We actually started with their Louisiana Shrimp and Crabmeat pie which looks more like an empanada. Next we had some fried boudin, or blood sausage. For soup, I selected the Chef Donald’s Black-eyed Pea and Pork Gumbo which is one of the best gumbos I have ever had. For dinner I split the Louisiana Cochon with turnips, cabbage, and cracklins and the smoked beef brisket with horseradish potato salad with Larry. It’s hard to pick which one was better as they were both incredible. Needless to say, there was no room for dessert.
One interesting thing that happened in this restaurant on Friday night and was repeated on other occasions, locals asked us if we were visiting and where we came from. Every time, they thanked us for coming back to the city. Folks, these are wonderful people with a wonderful city to enjoy. They really had a terrible ordeal, but they are a testament to the strength of the human spirit and the desire to live the American dream. They are fiercely proud of their city and with good reason. It was incredible to have them stop and recognize us and thank us each for visiting.
Saturday morning we ate at La Peniche in the Marigny, just a couple of blocks from the Quarter, where I had a three meat omelet and biscuits and gravy which were very good, though fairly standard fare. The power went out part way through the meal, but the staff just keeps right on working and bringing food out. They have learned how to adapt during these times where things may not be as reliable as before. Later, we snacked on a couple of slices of garlic pizza from Mona Lisa—oh my, this is a seriously addictive pizza! I could easily go through a large by myself, so it was a good thing when we left. From what I understand, they only deliver inside of the Quarter. We also heard their lasagna is out of this world. If you are craving Italian and your dogs are hurtin’ so you don’t want to leave your room, give these guys a call and ask for the garlic pie, just don’t plan on smooching with people that didn’t enjoy it with you!
For dinner, we found ourselves at the Port of Call on Esplanade. We’ve been here many times in the past and it always has a line, but it’s worth the wait, and they have a full bar to help you pass the time while you are waiting. They make a mean hamburger cooked anyway you like (yes, they’ll even do rare or medium rare, my personal favorite), served with a baked potato rather than fries. I’m sure with the half pound of meat, the cheese and the loaded potato, Port of Call probably accounted for three pounds of my vacation weight gain. But it was worth it!
Sunday morning I dragged all our friends that were staying in the same hotel over to Annette’s Cafe on Dauphine. This
is a very small cafe between Iberville and Conti on Dauphine that is open for breakfast and lunch. I stumbled upon this place the first time I visited New Orleans in 1995 when I visited for a work conference. The next time I went back I looked for Annette’s but I couldn’t find it and decided she must not have made it. Well, we were walking down Dauphine and just happened to pass by and I was very excited that I finally found it again. Annette is a tiny but very animated lady from Monaco. As she will tell you, she makes the world’s best omelets.
Proudly displayed in the window and on the walls inside is a picture of Annette with Alec Baldwin and an article that was in the paper while he was in New Orleans filming Heaven’s Prisoners. Annette will be happy to tell you about the days that Alec, Kim, and crew spent in her cafe. She has many stories and it warms you up inside to listen to her tell them. As Annette said while she slung the first round of omelets up on to the counter, the food is great, but the service sucks. The fact of the matter is every place in New Orleans is struggling to find help so the service is a little off everywhere. That’s just part of the charm, Heck, you’re on vacation. Relax. Enjoy. Soak up the energy and the livelihood this city has to offer. You’ve earned the break.
Annette has a friend, Aunt Ester, that stopped by to help Annette serve on Sunday and we saw her again Monday. Ester is like many in the city that are trying to get back on their feet. She immigrated here many years ago, but lost everything in the storm. She said she has been overwhelmed with the generosity that people have extended her and loves this country and the people here and says she will never leave. Ester had just gotten hired for a new job on Monday so we wish her well with that.
Before we left on Sunday, the guys that were
with us happened to mention to Annette that we had planned on going to go over to a famous restaurant on the other side of the Quarter to have beignets, to which Annette replied that “those are like little dry turds! You come back tomorrow; I make you the world’s best beignets!” So we came back to Annette’s Café on Monday and though I’m not much of a fan of these little fritters, I will agree that these are the best I’ve had. My favorite is still her Cajun omelet though—definitely gives you the energy to roam around the city for the rest of the day.
There is something about supporting the little guys that makes me feel good inside. Annette has a great spirit. Even though she boarded up her little café, the looters broke out the window. Rather than just taking the food, they tore up this lady’s hard earned livelihood. It’s hard for the little guys in this once thriving city right now, as they struggle to rebuild. But Annette has cashed in the money she set aside for retirement and is slugging it out. If you get a chance to share a breakfast with her, expect to take your time and savor the special charm she has to offer, do talk to her, get her to open up, it won’t take much and you’ll have a very memorable time. Oh, and she gives a great massage too, but that’s another story (ask her about the hairy lady). Tell her the Orlando and Miami boys from Decadence sent you; I’m sure she’ll make you feel right at home.
That will do it for the food section of my posting as I’m thoroughly stuffed now. Tomorrow I’ll continue with our tour of the 9th Ward and some about Southern Decadence as well.
(And for anyone that is wondering, I was there for four days and gained five pounds. Back to the treadmill but it was worth every pound of it!)
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